My first trip to Oaxaca, Mexico was just shy of 10 years ago. I took this trip with my sister-in-law who knows the city like the back of her hand. She and my husband are first generation born in the United States. Both their parents were born and raised in a small pueblo about 4 hours north of the city of Oaxaca. This small town, San Pablo Macuiltianguis, is one of the most amazing places I have ever visited. It’s a magical pueblo to say the least. It’s got cobblestone roads, homes built with tin roofs, and green as far as the eye can see. Describing it does it no justice.
Most of my time on this trip was spent in this tiny village, but we also ventured in the city of Oaxaca and explored surrounding towns. One of the first things your eye will notice in Oaxaca (and frankly in much of Mexico) are the beautiful colors. The homes, businesses and signs are all painted in beautiful bright pastel colors.
But let’s get to the juicy textiles! If you are into textiles, you might already know what I’m talking about. Oaxaca is famous for its folk art that includes: barro negro, hand embroidered blouses and dresses, alebrijes, and tapetes. Tapetes – they are gorgeous. Perfection. Honestly, I was in awe at the details, the craftsmanship, and the time it takes to craft these beautiful items. You can find woven textiles in all shapes and forms, but what I’d like to focus on today are Oaxacan “Tapetes.” Tapetes are traditional rugs that are typically placed on the floor. In my home, we place tapetes on top of our couch, our dresser, the wall, and on the floor.
Tapetes and other woven goods are made by the Zapotec: the indigenous peoples that are mostly concentrated in the state of Oaxaca. In the small village east of Oaxaca called Teotitlan del Valle is where you can explore how they are made from start to finish. Although, of course, you can also find them sold in the city of Oaxaca and all around Mexico; Teotitlan is most famous for these textiles.
In one of my many trips back to Oaxaca, my husband and I traveled to Teotitlan and took a tour to learn more about Tapetes and the painstaking process of creating these beautiful rugs. The rugs are made of sheep’s wool which is spun into yarn by hand. The yarn is then dyed by hand; all from natural ingredients like plants, insects and earth. One of the most beautiful colors I was shown was a beautiful burgundy made with an “insecto de nopal” (an insect that you can find on a cactus plant) called cochineal.
The yarn is then soaked in boiling hot water for hours to allow the color set. Next, the yarn is hung out to dry to prepare for weaving. Weaving is done by men and women in the Zapotec community and is produced on a foot loom. The patterns that are woven into the rugs are significant to the Zapotec community, and have various meanings, symbols, and stories. You can learn more about this process by visiting here.
It really wasn’t until this trip that I began to truly appreciate the work that goes into making Tapetes, and other handmade goods from other countries. Often when travelling, I’d try to get the most bang for my buck, or try and see if I could snag some type of “deal”. Learning more about the people behind the product and the labor of love that goes into their art has given me a new perspective when purchasing folk art from countries I travel to. I know the worth and the value of the sacrifice behind the product.
This is also something that I’ve learned to appreciate as a new sewer. I had no idea how much time you need to invest in creating a button up shirt, or a simple pair of pants (not to mention pants that fit you just right!) Although this is nothing compared to the work of the Zapotec community, it gives me a fresh perspective and another reason to appreciate the making process. Instead of rushing through my own projects, I’m reminded to intentionally slow down, take my time, and stitch with love, care and attention to detail.
Cynthia is an elementary music teacher by day and a passionately creative maker of many things by night. She resides and teaches in Los Angeles. You can find her on instagram here.
Without even knowing it, this post was exactly what i needed today. Thank you for a wonderful story about Oaxca and the lovely textiles. I love these photos and your descriptions.
I’m so glad it touched you. Oaxaca is a magical place and has that same impact on me!
I know what you mean about trying to find a “bargain” or whatever. I learned my lesson in an East African market…I really didn’t want to buy anything, but, the woman had made a very unusual “story” quilt, and I touched it and I asked about it…and in the end, I ended up buying it…BUT…she said, “why do you Americans want everything so cheap?” I wanted to say, but I don’t really want it, and you kept talking to me, etc., etc., etc. I didn’t say anything…and later, sometimes I would take the piece to my negotiation classes and explain to my students, “Sometimes, you just don’t bargain.”
Yes, there are times to negotiate; but in my opinion, when purchasing something of quality, handmade with traditional techniques; I never do. It’s important to respect and value the people who create these wonderful works of art!
NOW, I totally agree with you…
Many years ago I had to mediate a situation in the mercado in Oaxaca. I had gone to the city with a group of midwives,none of whom spoke English. One of them came looking for me to help a vendor. A couple from the east coast was trying to haggle the woman on a beautiful blouse, I looked at my paisana and asked her if she liked the blouse, she responded that she did, so I asked her what the problem was. Well, it’s Mexico and you’re supposed to haggle. Not with everything I told her, and if you like it, pay the lady and be thankful you found such a lovely peice to take home. She did, and the vendor just shot me the most wonderful grin.
That’s so great you taught her that, and the vendor I’m sure appreciated you educating her! I only ask for a deal when purchasing a bulk of hand carved book marks, or little alebrijes or things of this nature-but ONLY when I’m planning to buy a bunch. I never try to haggle if it’s just one or two. My husband was there last year to buy items for our wedding and was able to get more of deal when buying 100’s of things at a time. But I really thing that’s one of the only times it’s okay to try and get a deal: when buying in bulk.
So lovely – thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome!