As a plus-size woman, I’ve spent years working through Curvy Sewing Collective and the Sewcialists to get more inclusively-sized patterns. But let me tell you, as hard as it is in womenswear, it’s so much worse in menswear!
My husband is a smart, sexy, kind man, and he deserves to look and feel great in his clothes. He has a 55″ waist, which means I haven’t been able to find a single pants pattern that fits him, and only a literal handful of top or sweater patterns. His body is not the problem — the pattern selection is!
So, what’s a sewist to do when the patterns aren’t right? Get tracing, get hacking, and get grading! I’m going to show you some examples of what I’ve made him in the past, and then show you what I made him for #sewmenswearforeveryone !
One of the first things I started sewing for Jamie was underwear… but just in case his high school students ever find this post, I’m not going to tell you much about those! Suffice to say, I drafted them from my TNT leggings pattern, and it might be the only area of sewing where it’s cheaper to sew than to buy.
The next thing I started sewing Jamie is hoodies! I traced off a RTW hoodie, and sewed that many times… then eventually tried out the FreeSewing.org Hugo hoodie, which had some fit issues in the armscye (too deep) and hood (too tall), but otherwise was great. The joy of Freesewing.org is that you get a pattern custom drafted to your measurements. so I didn’t have to adjust or add length for Jamie’s height!
(Did you read our Sewcialists interview with Joost of Freesewing.org in January? It’s a great read!)
This summer I got to test the Thread Theory Sayward Raglan, which goes up to a 4x. I wrote a tutorial for Thread Theory on how to grade a simple tee like this up or down. I know plenty of plus-size women who refuse to buy patterns that will need grading up (myself included), but when the menswear options are so limited, I’ll do whatever it takes!
This summer, I decided to make Jamie some pants. I’ve never seen plus-size mens pants available with stretch, and I feel strongly that everyone deserves some give in their trousers! I stocked up on stretch twill and started hunting for a pattern… with very little success! I muslined two patterns and compared them with a RTW pair I’d deconstructed.
The problem is that round bodies need both height and width, and neither pattern I tried accounted for the height needed. Personally, I feel strongly that is what happens when a pattern is graded too far past the block. It’s not enough just to sell a 5x pattern — it needs to be a well graded 5x, or it’s a waste of time and fabric! That goes for all patterns, not just menswear.
Anyway, I used the best of the two as a starting point, and altered it past recognition. The great news is that Jamie loved the first pair so much that I’ve made him several more! They are in that category of “not perfect, but perfectly wearable”.
So, let’s talk men’s plus size pattern options! I’m only going to list companies that have sizes over a 50″ waist.
- FreeSewing.org will draft patterns for any measurement. They have patterns including hoodies, tees, pants, a coat and dress shirt.
- Wolf and the Tree has a t-shirt that goes to waist 62″. I wish they had more than one pattern option in that size range!
- Thread Theory did extend their size range, but stops short of a 50″ waist in all patterns except the Fairfield Button-Up. For that shirt, they have a standard fit and a “rounded stomach” fit, kind of like cup sizes but for the belly! They do sell many of the options I mention here in their website store though, which is a good start.
- 5 out of 4 have pyjama pants, a vest, boxers, trunks, and a couple tees and sweaters that go to about a 60″ waist.
- Dapper by Laela Jayne offers a polo/tee, vest and pants up to a 54″ waist.
- Toby K Patterns have a tee, cardigan and dressy vest up to a 54″ waist.
- Ellie and Mac have a tank top and tee up to a 60″ waist.
- Twig and Tale have a casual shirt, coat and vest for up to 62″ waist.
- Simplicity has some “husky boys” and “big and tall” men’s patterns: pyjamas and a fancy vest!
Look, you see the problem, right? If my husband wanted to wear a puffer vest, t-shirt and pyjama pants every day, we would have plenty of pattern options! But actual wardrobe basics are thin on the ground, especially since as I said, a pattern can be extended past its usefulness. Personally, whether I’m shopping for Jamie or myself, I look for plus-size patterns that are built on a different block than the standard sizes, so that the fit is more accurate. Sadly, I’m not sure this actually exists in menswear right now.
What can we do? Well, same thing that we do as any under-represented group: let designers know we want options, share projects for plus-size men on social media, and try to take the stigma out of being over a certain size! Sewing is for everyone, and every body!
Do you have any experience sewing plus-size menswear? Would you agree that the pattern options are pretty, well, slim? Let us know your thoughts and any patterns you recommend in the comments!
The Sewcialists is a hyper-inclusive editorial site. We recognize that “Menswear” as we use it in our theme month is a very loaded term, and we use any gendered reference in these discussions to denote the most broadly accepted “traditional” categories only, without wishing to prescribe or proscribe what any person can wear. We recognize all gender identities and the choice to dress how one pleases.
Gillian cofounded the Sewcialists in 2013. She lives in Canada and loves cats, bright colours and sewing! She blogs at www.craftingarainbow.wordpress.com.
You’ve made fabulous clothes for your husband, especially with the limited choices to work with. I’ve never tried sewing for mine (or menswear ever) as he is a fitting nightmare. We currently get all his pants custom made as he is such an odd fit we can’t buy anything off the rack for him. I’ve never tried shirts as his size in commercial patterns didn’t exist, he used to be a size 60 suit jacket extra tall, though he’s down 60 pounds now.
Though I’ve taken pattern drafting and altering that was never something I wanted to try and tackle with the patterns that were available at the time I was actively sewing. I’m only recently getting back into sewing and am finding a wealth of new pattern options and inspiration through The Sewcialists. Thank you “sew” much!
This article is great, thank you! My husband has a large chest relative to his other measurements, and has a hard time finding shirts that fit. I’ve made him several shirts and we are still working on the fit. Fitting reseources for menswear seem to be lacking as well as patterns. I keep getting diagonal wrinkles in the armhole up towards the neck, and all my fitting books insisted it was a problem with the shoulder slope. Finally found a mention that it had to do with athletic build and I needed to add wedges to both the front and back to nothing at the armhole, and now the wrinkles are gone. Maybe I’ll add the fitting information on my blog. As usual, when we can’t find what we need we have to do it ourselves!
Wow, Gillian! How talented you are, and how lucky your husband is! I totally agree with you re: grading. It is very hard to find any good men’s plus size patterns- I was requisitioned to make a Renaissance costume for my brother-in-law’s wedding, and couldn’t find anything suitable without grading too many sizes for comfort. He wears a 2/3XL in Big & Tall, so I ended up drafting my own patterns, and used some RTW that he liked to get an armhole shape reference. Would love to know if you ever find a pant pattern you are happy with- we really struggled there, and he always is looking for a nice fitting pant.
Have you looked at Tailor Made by Wild Ginger? It’s pattern drafting software for men. https://www.wildginger.com/products/pmtailormade.htm
I’ve never heard of it! I’ll check it out – thanks!
Jalie has some men’s patterns. Do they go up into plus sizes like the women’s?
Sadly they don’t! Even Jalie’s womens patterns only go slightly into the plus size market. I do love them though!
How frustrating!! I don’t know any adult men of any size that would be happy having nothing but pajamas, puffy vests, and t-shirts in their wardrobe, so why should Jamie have to settle for that? >=( I really wish there were more pattern options for your husband, but you’ve made amazing things for him regardless. (Also, how in the ever-loving HELL is he out in the snow in shorts?!?!? I’m getting frostbite just looking at that photo! 😀 )
The shorts are fantastic, and I am so glad that he is happy with them. His new t-shirt that matches his tattoo is especially awesome! (As is the tattoo itself.) I’d love to make more things for my guy–underwear are at the top of his list, believe it or not! Now that I have a coverstitch, I’m feeling confident enough to try them; I also want him to have me-made jeans and shorts but sewing for myself is always more fun. 😉
My hubby has a 40 inch waist, 50 chest and a long torso. and it’s tricky to find nice patterns for him. So far I’ve made him shirts. I started with a RTW that fit well, but was too short and have adapted and tweaked the fit over the last couple of years, which means I now have a good shirt pattern. Next up is trousers. I will be drafting them to fit.
You are incredible. The fact you not only did knit garments, but you did highly recognizable symbols…like… you screw up the Fantastic Four symbol and there’s no way he’s going to wear it – you might not even know it, but he knows, and all the other fans will know… fandom is powerful. You’re a brave woman. It’s hard enough sewing for another person, let alone different gender, having to grade patterns yourself, AND entering the Fandom Zone.
I have made my husband-unit clothing, and I too spent a lot of time customizing patterns. He’s got broad, boxer-sloped shoulders outside of “straight-sizing” but only in the back. Because of the trained posture, his front has a narrower shape. SO FUN TO TAILOR /sarcasm. He did lose a lot of weight recently – and it didn’t change his back shoulder span a bit, but only made the front smaller. (insert crazy laugh) I took in all of his pants, and the fronts of his shirts. I’m still procrastinating on his suit jackets, and shall continue to procrastinate until he buys himself new ones. shhhh.
You make Jamie great clothes but I agree, it shouldn’t be so hard.
The only thing I can suggest to add is the Islander express shirt 232 “hanging out” which goes up to 60 in chest size and 62 in finished waist measurement (she doesn’t give body waist size). She has other shirts in the 4X size range as well, which may or may not be of interest. You have to look though all patterns in the Islander Sewing Systems site as there isn’t a separate men’s category (go figure).
I don’t get the vest thing, for men or women. Pattern books seem obsessed with them. Weird.
My searching has yielded only hoodie and tee patterns, but I thought they might help someone so here they are.
Pattydoo.de have four hoodie and sweatshirt / long sleeved tee patterns up to 52in chest/ 53.5 in hips. Good prices (site has an English option)
StitchUponATime on etsy, has a tank top up to 4X (chest 60 waist 57.5in)
EYMM has a tshirt that not only goes up to 6XL (chest 68 waist 70), but comes in a Tall option which might be helpful for a new sewer. They have a hoodie up to 5XL (chest 66). Both on sale for $3 as I write.
I haven’t had much luck fitting my husband: 6’4″ (193cm), around a european 60. The lack of options even to size up is dire, and my efforts have been pretty bad. He’d be a full fledged fashionisto if he could. The only good stuff I’ve managed was a national costume for dancing, where I finally worked out the adjustments needed to fit him, so if I find time there’s hope. From a traced xl costume I had to add 25 cm in length at top, spread 1/3 between neck and underarm, 2/3 below, and about the same in width, plus a maternity spread at front, 15cm to pant length with rise shortened. Its a whole different way of manipulating fabric to women’s wear.
Thanks for a great post that I totally relate too.
Those are fabulous! But you’re so right about the options available for bigger men. Have you looked into the Lekala semi-custom patterns at all? Mind you the same issues of grading beyond the block might apply.
I’m sewing for my husband as well who has a 61″ chest, 60″ waist, and a low hanging tummy. I’ve had good success with the 5oo4 patterns, and my understanding is they are continuing to expand their sizing for new and existing menswear patterns. I too would love to sew him a nice spring jacket or gasp… Jeans! Rtw fits meh, okay…. But I know they could be so much better. For underwear though that’s the first thing I sewed for him too and I used the Michael/Lillebror pattern from Pin up Girls (Beverly Johnson at makers supply) he LOVES those underwear! The pattern is very easy to grade based on where the seams are. They also have lovely fabric and waistband elastic for men’s underwear. I hear you about stretch in pants too. Last fall we found dress pants at a rtw store for him that fit great just needed hemming, and they had spandex in them….. He was like, “whoa, pants can be stretchy?” 😂 I have some stretch Denim from blended threads I hope to use for us both soon.
[…] The Sewcialists have some very handy tips on sewing for plus size men. […]
It’s so frustrating! My Mr B. Has a 56” chest, 56” hips, and a 58” low hanging tummy. He also has sensory issues (on the autism spectrum, as am I) so buying clothes is a nightmare -getting him to go shopping at all is difficult, and finding fabric that “feels right” is also important.
Add those barriers to the lack of men’s plus size patterns? He’s been wearing some of the same t shirts for 10 years.
We’re both disabled, so we work together on sewing projects. We just need to find the right ones for him.
Even in smaller sizes, men’s patterns are few and far between and for larger men the prospects are dim.
While I quite like the outdoorsy styles from Thread Theory, their sizing standard is disheartening. To wit, their latest offering, the Sayward Raglan (as you certainly know) goes up to what they call a 4x but that is for a 50 inch chest. Islander Sewing’s 4x is for a chest of up to 60″ and still has about 6 inches of ease.
Such a good post G – and I never noticed how much taller J is than you 🙂 Adorable! I too believe that all humans should have some stretch in their pants (or skirts). I’ve decided I’m never sewing garments without some stretch again. Famous last words and all… I so hope that the marketplace becomes more inclusive, specifically for men (that cohort I am somewhat cowed to tell you, I rarely consider). This post – and the recent one you wrote on your blog about the the dress for Anne with the buttonhole for her medical gizmo – reconfirm my understanding that more creativity is required to suit the majority. Also, you are a selfless sewist! My husband has got 1 t shirt from me. When he vaguely complained about some element of it I don’t even remember, seven years on, I was like: yeah, you can go to the Gap.
I sew for a plus size man. The Hubster is big and tall (think 5 or 6xl top/shirt, 3-4xl pants and 185 m tall). I’m also plus size, but I find enough patterns for me.
I have resorted to using a handful of patterns;
Tshirts – The Vintage Parker Tee from EYMM (Everything Your Mamma Made)
Shorts (because that’s all he wears) – Swim Trunks from 5oo4
Hoodies – Halftime Hoodie from 5oo4
Vests – Redwood Vest from 5oo4
Underwear – Lucky Briefs and Lucky Boxer Briefs from RAD Patterns
My wonderful knight in shining armor has a 54 waist and stands 6’3”. RTW designers apparently think that all big size men are short. I never knew of any 4x patterns for men so hearing of even a smattering gives me hope! I will check out all the links you have posted. I dream of the day when there is a computer program to scan the body and make all clothing possible in all sizes!
Do you sell the hoodie pattern
Wow what an amazing article! this is exactly what i was looking for, all the tips are super awesome will surely follow these.
Hi, I have just started to make for my brother, and boy I never realised how difficult it was to find patterns. So glad I have found you. I will definitely try out some of the companies you have mentioned. Thank you x
Hello, I don’t even know if you’ll read this over two years after writing this post but thought you might be interested in the Silas Shorts by Annelaine Patterns. They have a working fly, a waistband, pocket options and 3 lengths (should be easy enough to make them into long trousers too) They have three rise options too, great for a long bodied husband like mine and go up to a 63” high hip (waist measurements not included for this pattern)
There’s one possible problem though, they are closing down, maybe as soon as 31st July 2021
Good news is all patterns are $1.99 as a closing down sale. I haven’t made my husband any yet because he’s requested an elasticated waistband easy pull on version and I’m struggling to find a pattern that uses woven rather than stretch fabric but intend to make these fitted woven shorts too.
I forgot to mention Waves & Wild patterns. They have boxers, sweatshirts, a t-shirt, a bucket hat, an aviator hat and fireside slippers all in larger sizes but no shorts or trousers (yet?)
Ellie & Mac have a few men’s patterns too. Some of them go to 6XL, most of them are 5XL.
Good luck in your search for better patterns for your husband, I struggle to find them for my lovely husband of nearly 40 years. He’s 6’3” with a 55” barrel chest, long body, 46” waist and 33” inside leg. Shop bought trousers are particularly difficult, manufacturers seem to think any waist measurements over 40” mean the wearer is short so the inside leg is often 29” or 31”. Very annoying!
Feeling very silly here, apologies for misleading you. The Annelaine pattern is called the Chadwick board shorts not the Silas shorts (those are the child’s/youths versions)
There are a couple of other suitable patterns too, very versatile t-shirts/sweatshirts etc.
Once again, apologies for the wrong pattern name.
Good luck in your search.
Very interesting article. I struggle with clothes for my 170 lb, 5’3″ 10 year old son. This year I could not find any school uniform pants/shorts that fit him. I had to make them! I stsrted with Simplicity 1505 and have customized it to fit him. It makes a workable starting point. I used an elastic waist. The only negative feedback I’ve gotten is the legs are too wide (even though I’ve slimmed them down twice)- so next time I’ll work on that. People are more likely to sew for those hard to fit in RTW and yet in a world with more and more husky size kids it’s almost impossible to find patterns for them. Extremely frustrating!!
I have searched everywhere and can’t find one cotton button down or Hawaiian style shirt pattern for my 6’9″ husband with a 38″ waist. Just adding length where directed on patterns doesn’t turn out quite right. I have fantastic dragon fabric for my D&D lover and really want to make him a shirt to make his buddies jealous. Any help for a tall man who’s not big? Slacks or Jean patterns are even worse.
Oh my gosh, i just have to say hi to this comment because I’m ALSO trying to find the right pattern to make a camp collar shift for a D&D wedding that my husband is offciating in the summer!!! I haven’t tried any of these, but I wonder if they might be a step in the right direction: https://patterntailor.com/product/big-and-tall-hawaii-men-shirt-sewing-pattern/ (It is big and tall, but maybe comparing the length and proportions of the pattern against a smaller size would help?) https://wardrobebyme.com/products/tropical-shirt-sewing-pattern Good luck!