Hi sewcialists, I’m Alex, a style & sewing lover and a blogger (Sewrendipity.com) aiming to live a more sustainable life in London, UK.
As a sustainability practitioner in my work life and passionate advocate for sustainable fashion and sewing on my blog, I often get asked about what people should do to be less impactful on the environment. I’m sure that’s not what you want to hear, but there is not a simple answer to this. Sustainability has a myriad of aspects, like environmental impact (soil, water, chemicals, waste), social (workers rights and health, women empowerment, fair pay) and ethical (fair treatment of animals, or no animal derivatives at all). It’s impossible to make the right choices that cover all of them at the same time. So what I decided to do for myself and advise others too is to start by focusing on the one thing that matters the most to you and figuring out ways to address it in your everyday life and why not, in sewing.
I personally am very passionate about overconsumption and waste, avoiding it, reducing it and ultimately, recycling it. This probably comes from years of mindless shopping for clothes that I don’t love and that end up in the back of the wardrobe, unworn. And sadly, this also applies to my early sewing days, when I was making loads of garments that were not well thought out, that did not match my lifestyle and that did not last. Disposable fashion (and making) is just as bad as disposable coffee cups and water bottles and cutlery.
So, just as I decided to fight against disposables by using reusable water bottles, and carrying my own straws and cutlery as well as coffee cups and cloth bags, I started thinking about what can I change in my sewing life that can address this potential disposable clothes issue in my sewing and wardrobe.
That’s how the concept of ‘a meaningful wardrobe’ was born. I have been on a RTW fast since 2015, but I still love sewing as much as I ever did, and it’s quite hard to be a sustainable minimalist when you love making your own clothes (even if just a few items each year).
So what is a meaningful wardrobe to me?
It’s a set of guidelines that I try to stick by when it comes to my sewing queue, general clothes consumption, and wearing more of what I have. The aim is to manage impulse control for what I add into my wardrobe, consider the purpose of each and every garment I make and overall, reduce my personal impact on the planet, all heading towards a more sustainable(-ish) lifestyle.
What are the qualities of a meaningful wardrobe
- Intentional
Intent is my foundation principle, as this is aimed at stopping impulse making on a whim, chasing all the shiny new fabrics and patterns and joining bandwagons that may not be suitable for my style and lifestyle. I want to make sure that what I make or buy (shoes) actually fills in a gap, works well with clothes I already have and is true to my style. - Lean
I am an aspiring minimalist, which is mostly a revolt against my previous hoarder lifestyle. I am constantly purging and avoiding clutter and I want that to be the case for my wardrobe as well. Fewer pieces that are loved and get worn often. It makes dressing in the mornings easier, as well as taking up less storage space in my wardrobe. - Informed
Knowing and being aware of issues is crucial to making good decisions. I want to know where my fabric comes from, who are the companies that I am supporting with my purchase. Instead of just pressing the ‘order’ button, look into their ethics, research them on apps like Good on You or the Fashion Transparency index. This is more difficult for sewers, as even the fabric shop owners most of the time have no idea where their fabric comes from, but at least have a read into raw materials and their potential impact on the environment and make better choices if you can. - Quality
When we buy fabric or a RTW garment, most of the environmental and social impact has already taken place. So the best thing we can do is make sure that whatever we end up making with it or buying will last a very long time. Sew slowly and mindfully and invest time in making sure it will get a lot of wear. Use finishings that will ensure its durability. Understand what quality looks like is also very important, things like fabric composition, garment care instructions and advice for longevity.
How to work towards a meaningful wardrobe?
- Analyse
I really love a bit of wardrobe geekiness, with style exercises (see Style Bee 10×10 Challenge), wear counts, inventories, etc. This really helped to hone in my personal style and be less prone to distractions when it comes to my sewing queue. This is of course not for everyone, but maybe just a bit of a reflection period at the end of each project (or a few months after completion), can serve the same purpose. Have I worn this garment as much I expected? If not, why not? How did it stand the wear test? These can all be lessons that can be incorporated in future projects and help towards more intentional making. - Learn
Being aware is the first step towards making changes. After step 1, what have I identified that I need to do differently? Maybe it’s a technique that I need to improve and practice some more, maybe it’s a particular fabric that did not fare well in the wear. What can I learn to make it better next time? I would also strongly encourage you to read more into how different fabrics are made, ask questions from your favourite fabric shops about the sustainability of their fabrics and demand more sustainable options. It’s small choices that can make a difference. - Curate
When you are introducing something new in your wardrobe (by sewing it or buying it) or thinking if you should remove something from it, ask yourself these 3 questions:- Will I wear it 30 times?
- Can I pair with 5 items I already have?
- How much do I love it on a scale from 1-10?
What next?
I know that this approach is not for everyone. As I said, I am a minimalist. I actually enjoy capsules and having fewer items to choose from; my creativity is stimulated by restrictions. I also don’t have a lot of sewing time, so I have to be very strict with what I decide to sew. If this speaks to you and you want to slow down your sewing with intent, I hope you found some interesting ideas here and I would love to continue the conversation.
I know that for many people sewing is an escape and a hobby that makes us happy, so I’m not judging anyone who is not interested in a slow sewing challenge. But remember that making a small change is better than doing nothing. A few easy ideas: shop your stash instead of buying new fabric, reuse or recycle your scraps, repair or refashion an older garment. Even if one in 10 projects is a tiny bit more sustainable, it’s better than zero in 10.
If you’d like to know more about sustainable textiles, styling a handmade wardrobe and sustainable sewing, you can hop over to my blog. You can also keep in touch on Instagram @sewrendipity , Facebook Sewrendipity and Twitter (@sewrendipity).
Alex Thank you so much for a well written, inspiring peek into an aspiring minimalist and sustainable sewing style. Often when I heard the words sustainability and minimalist I would tune out and just glance at the article, feeling overwhelmed at the prospect. Your invitation to think about one way to have an impact, really captured me – I love how you broke down your thoughts on how to chose to be environmentally friendly, as well as as how to being to think about a minimalistic style. …I would love to read more…perhaps from a book you could write.?!
Thank you so much, Heather! I’m so glad you found it useful. I write quite a lot about this on my blog, so would love to hear your thoughts there as well. Thank you for the book idea, maybe someday…
Love this article! is easier to just focus on one aspect of minimalism/slow sewing because is such a complex process and we can’t do everything all at once. For me it would be to INVEST in quality, eco friendly-durable fabrics and make meaningful pieces I would wear again and again. This alone is hard for me, because I just love sewing and something I just want to make something just to learn how to make it, learn a new skill, reach a new level and sometimes I end up with pieces I barely wear and that needs to change. I’m going to start planning my sewing more (I actually have a sewing planner I haven’t used, ever) and being a little more conscious of what I buy and make. I also need to go to thrift stores and refashion items, Rescue them and that is another way I feel like I’m being sustainable 🙂
Thank you Karla, so glad you enjoyed this and found it useful. Refashioning is a great way to build a more sustainable wardrobe. The one tip would be to find items that could not be resold. Ask the people in the charity shop if they have any items that have small defects that they can’t seel, but would be perfect for you to scavenge the fabric or turn into something else. That way you are still helping the charity, but are being double sustainable.
I think this is great advice. I like to keep an eye on what might actually be saleable for a thrift store when I decide what to donate vs. what to keep to refashion myself.
What an excellent article! One of my favorites thus far. I appreciated the names of places to to check for transparency too. Thank,you!
I returned to making my own clothes after I read Elizabeth Cline’s book “Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion” and have continued reading about the “ethics of fashion” ever since.
Thank you so much! I would also recommend Lucy Siegle’s book To Die For and also The True Cost the movie (now available for free on Netflix).
Thank you so much! I would also recommend Lucy Siegle’s book To Die For and also The True Cost the movie (now available for free on Netflix).
Great guidelines!
Love your approach and the new focus for your blog, Alex.
I’ve been thinking lots about how to make my sewing more sustainable, as I’ve found myself using fabrics with some polyester content more and more recently. As I don’t have much disposable income at the moment it’s difficult to invest in expensive fabrics, but I am trying to do so more thoughtfully. I suppose it helps that I don’t have much sewing time at the moment, so I’m only making a few pieces. I’m trying to make sure that they are ones I will get huge amounts of wear from. Honing in on my style has been a huge help. I’m currently planning a winter capsule wardrobe, and I’m really excited to get sewing!
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Thank you for this post Alex, I’ve been in a quandary since recently returning to sewing as I want to sew (obviously) but I am also conscious of my impact and the ease with which our hobby can turn into a consumption fest. I’ve also been guilty in the past of having too much RTW to which sewing for myself was a response. You’ve given me some food for thought about how to be creative without making too big a footprint.
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Excellent tips! I particularly loved the curating one 🙂 will apply that!
I blog about empowering women through fashion on http://www.missandrada.com
Love,
Not A Girly Gal