Everyone knows about the mythical unicorn, how uber-cool they are and how they appear on everything from notebooks to cushions these days (yay!).
A well-known aspect of the unicorn is that they are difficult to catch. This neatly sums up how I feel about finding a Tried and True (TNT) pattern that is actually useful.
For many of us, sewing is an escape from the fact that we don’t fit into the “standard” sizes in stores, for whatever reason. Some of us will need additional length, some need fuller chest and shoulders, some might need both (that’s me!), and so on. Add in the fact that the labelling and fit of sizes is totally different between shops… and we all throw up our hands and go learn to sew instead.
We get excited as we learn about the sewing world — we find new pattern designers, beautiful fabric (so, so much fabric), and communities of people like us who are sewing garments that will fit their unique body. It’s empowering, it’s exciting, it’s nirvana!
Except we still have the same problem. We still don’t fit into size x from pattern company y without adjusting that pattern for us. This is the “trough of disillusionment” of learning to sew. Realising just how loooooong the journey to great fit might be. It’s also one of the greatest rewards, because now we can do something about that problem. We grow in skill and understanding and feel the power that comes from mastering techniques and adjustments to achieve increasingly good results.
So this point, for me, is where the TNT is supposed to gallop in — shining in its magical unicorn-y glory. The TNT is a hard-earned shortcut to great fit. We put in the work and now we can whip up a new outfit in mere minutes, leaving a trail of sparkly rainbow unicorn-dust in our wake.
Except for me, my unicorn is missing-in-action. I have precisely one sort-of TNT, which is this pattern:
You will note that this is both an easy pattern and a custom-fit pattern (with cup sizes). It probably became a TNT for me because it was quick and easy.
I have made it twice. Here is one of them:
I like both versions of this dress, but I don’t wear them very often.
So what’s the problem? To help you guess, here are a couple of my “core style” inspiration boards:
Anyone spot what’s missing here???!!!
I think this is the nub of the TNT problem for me – I am trying to catch a unicorn but am spending all my time running after horses. I don’t feel comfortable in dresses. So I spend a lot of time making different dresses in an attempt to find the one that will be different, and I don’t invest my time in finding a TNT that will be high rotation and actually useful.
I have decided my TNT month is going to be a quest to find my true TNT (or one of them). I think there are a number of ways to do this:
- Focus in on your style — do something like wardrobe architect or similar to help you work out what you like.
- Check your wardrobe — look at the RTW items or makes you actually like, feel good in and suit your lifestyle.
- Check your pattern stash — you bought those patterns for a reason. Time to make them!
- Hone in on designers whose patterns seem to fit you better or suit your personal style. Make it easy!
- Seriously consider colour / print / fabrication as you might pass over a TNT opportunity if you don’t love the first try. No point in chasing a purple floral unicorn if you like wearing basic neutrals and hate prints. 🙂
- Check out other bloggers / sewers / people in your life who you are always drawn to — try and work out what it is about their sewing projects that you like and emulate them (see Tribute Month for how to do this!).
- Map a typical week — chart what you wear and how you felt wearing it. You should start to see a pattern of what you end up putting on for most days / settings in your life and whether you were happy with it.
- Follow along with TNT month to see how other people found their TNT and what they are making with it!
- Don’t make stuff you don’t like wearing. This might seem obvious, but after sewing clothes for around 7-10 years, it’s only just occurred to me!!!
Any other ideas to find that perfect first TNT? How did you find yours and how many do you have?
I am off to change into my unicorn-catching outfit (no, it’s not a TNT…) and jump in!
Anyone want to join me in my mythological quest?
Have you tried hacking one of the dresses off at hip level and seeing how it works as a t-shirt? If you don’t like it, you didn’t like the dress either, so you’re really not out anything. But yes, TNTs can be hard sometimes. And even if you do finally find one, who is to say you will still love it after a couple of times? Or, if it’s a bit distinctive then you wonder if anyone else notices that you are wearing the same shirt every day…
That’s a great idea – or maybe just make another one which is as a top! I am ashamed to say that hadn’t occurred to me 🙂
I am in the exact same position! I have sewn a lot of dresses. Why? Because they are beautiful und interesting to sew. Do I wear them …. no. In my daily routine there is no place for dresses. I just started to sort through my wardrobe – better say the things I actually wear – and am planning to start over my sewing carrier with shirts, sweaters and cardigans.
As an avid reader, I can recommend “The curated closet” (or the blog of anuschka rees). It helped me a lot.
Am so glad it’s not just me! Thanks for the book recommendation – I hadn’t heard of that one and will check it out. Good luck with your new sewing approach 🙂
I came upon my first TNT after working out some of my styling preferences using the Wardrobe Architect. For exampIe, I was able to narrow down that I liked a dolman sleeve top and focused in on finding the best one for me.
Cool – I think I will revisit that series. I really enjoyed the process when I dabbled with it previously. Which top did you end up TNT-ing?
Your position was me a few years ago. Great me-made garments but I never wore them, just didn’t fit into my core wardrobe and lifestyle. I have been getting better at making styles that I wear. It has helped my wardrobe but I still need to evolve with my makes. Good luck
Thank you – I end up feeling weirdly guilty about sewing things I won’t wear – I guess it’s wasteful!
I’m going through the very same process – lots of under-worn items and a stash of inappropriate material! I’ve been trying to focus my makes (Colette’s “Wardrobe Architect” is highly recommended) and I’ve had a massive clear out of both patterns and fabric. To be honest I may as well make twenty Tilly and the Button’s Coco dresses and that would be me sorted!
Interesting…I also have a whole bunch of stash which isn’t super great (lots of too-small cuts which won’t make me anything on their own and not enough coordinating fabric to use them). I wonder if the clear-out will help also..!
I totally can’t steal your TNT though – as it seems like it’s a dress! 🙂
I have the same fabric problem. Too many too small bits, or nice pieces in colors or fabrics I don’t like to wear. It’s hard to get rid of them, but I bet it would be a relief to pass them on.
I’m sitting here in a button down that fits perfectly having just reminded myself that I don’t need to buy another button down pattern. If I want this one to have epaulets or pockets, I can Add those. After all, this shirt is supposed to have bows on the sleeves and I never even traced that pattern piece.
As fall slowly starts creeping in, I need to sit down with this button down (from bootstrap patterns), and match it to fabrics in the stash.
Or, ya know, but Granville and see how much pattern fitting I can do before I cry…
Maybe I’ll just TNT this shirt pattern 🙂
Oooo – I am jealous! I have never had a properly fitting shirt (I have a large chest) – it’s like the holy grail! Well done 🙂 You should definitely TNT it!
LOL…I love your post Chloe! Partly because….well…unicorns! But mostly because I love your writing and the content is so true.
I don’t have anything new to add. I have…gradually changing that adjective to had…huge holes in my winter wardrobe. I’ve been looking closely at the RTW that I always reach for and have been finding patterns that correspond.
Now….let’s go catch that unicorn. ….
Thank you! It was fun to write 🙂 You did add something new – the seasonal aspect! I suspect that might be a good lens to view the challenge through also – TNTs for summer and winter could be very different…I will have to start with summer as am southern hemisphere I think. Good luck with your winter wardrobe too 🙂
Just my opinion but I think that dress looks wonderful on you and is quite flattering. Maybe to be more comfortable with the idea, you could crop the pattern to tunic length as a starter?
Thank you – I do like it, just more in theory than in practice! I think the tunic length is a good idea. Would that be cheating in my mission to go find my TNT?
I like easy patterns because I can easily tailor them to my style. As well as adjust sizing to my liking- I like nothing form fitting.
My problem is having enough time to sew so I can have my wardrobe! :o) So far I have 1 dress, and 3 tops, and 1 almost finished caftan. No leggings (I don’t like pants) to go under. In the meantime I’ve sewn oodles for my married daughter, my kids and all new curtains for our summer place in the woods!
Elizabeth, I swear by the Cake Patterns Espresso leggings, which have you connect the dots to create a custom fit pattern. I’ve made 20+ pairs!!!
Wowsers! You are totally my TNT-goals now – that’s so many pairs of leggings! I am super-impressed 🙂
Such a great post, love your writing! My TNT is a culottes jumpsuit pattern, which I wear loads. Not the most practical option, but I love jumpsuits and I love culottes and toilet breaks be damned 😬! You keep at it, I gave up halfway through Wardrobe Architect. Great idea on paper, but guess I’d rather sew than plan!
Thank you 🙂
Your culottes jumpsuit sounds uber-fabulous. Do you make different lengths and top options with it or just stick with the single TNT form?
I think mine has to be a top, though I still haven’t decided which one!
The pattern is V9075, which has a skirt and culottes variations, plus sleeved and sleeveless versions. I’ve so far made a summer version, sleeveless, a winter version in woolly knit, with sleeves, a stand alone pair of culottes and a dress using the top part. All of them are in some sort of knit fabric, so I will have to make a woven version as well 😬.
Re tops, if you get your knit A-game on, esp. neck band, Bob’s your uncle 😬. I really want a TNT turtleneck pattern!! 💡
I’m in a very similar position to you in that I am actively working towards finding TNT patterns and trying to bring my sewing activity closer to my day to day outfits. I’ve made three Colette Sorbettos (including making my own design changes) and I do really like them but I wear jeans most days so the thing I’d really like to crack is trousers. I’ve made one pair of McCalls 6610 so far and that has been a really good start. Incidentally on the dress front I have discovered a huge love for jumper dresses through Autumn and Winter so I’m 80% of the way through making a Sew Over It Heather which is looking good. You may find jumper dresses are a way of incorporating those dressmaking urges into a wearable wardrobe without distracting you too much from the jeans, blazer core.
Good to meet a fellow unicorn-hunter 🙂 that McCalls trousers pattern looks really good – I like that it’s got at least three fit options, that would be a VERY useful TNT pattern I think!
Those were some great suggestions! At the moment, I’d say I have about 4 TNTs: the Deer & Doe Plantain top, the Sewaholic Rae skirt, the Espresso leggings, and the Cashmerette Appleton dress. The nice thing, which I just now realized, is the first three can make a complete outfit if I choose the right colors! I used to have more, but outgrew most of the old ones after a couple of babies, so I’m working on trying to come up with some new options. My plan for TNT month is to make a second version of a post- pregnancy pattern that worked for me, to see if I can add a button down to the mix.
You are just about at capsule-wardrobe status with the three patterns that you can combine! I was going to make my aim a capsule but then thought I should start with just one TNT 🙂 A button down will be a good addition – fingers crossed!
I don’t have any TNTs. I make stuff and it just doesn’t feel right, takes me too long to do all the adjustments and is really off-putting. I would love to be able to wear dresses but my bust is at leat 2 (maybe 3) dress sizes bigger than the rest of me so it is tops and trousers all the way. I have started to try out a couple of patterns for TNT Month. Maybe this will be a spur for people to catch their unicorns. 🙂 Xx
I do sympathise with just feeling tired at the thought! I also get a bit “meh” when I have spent ages adjusting and still don’t get the fit I want. I wondered about going the other way and using the method where you start with your own block fitted to you, then make it into things, but it also felt like a long and possibly highly frustrating journey…
I hope the patterns you are trying end up as an elusive TNT for you!
Good luck finding your TNT! One of my TNT’s is definitely the Deer & Doe Plantain tee – which I’ve made as a tee & a dress, and the Megan Nielsen Brumby skirt. I know it’s been said before but if you like the top half of your dresses I’d try chopping them down to tunic or top length & see how you like them. Thanks for the interesting post!
Hmmm – you must be the third or fourth person to list the Plantain tee as one of their TNTs. It’s definitely going on the list of patterns to investigate in my hunt!
I have to adjust nearly every pattern, but if it fits after the adjustments and I really like it, it’s a TNT. TNT doesn’t mean it has to fit right out of the envelope!
Thanks Jamie – I am just lazy really 🙂 Maybe I should investigate the bootstrap / custom fit patterns option, though I do actually enjoy the fitting process when am in the groove and it works. I just need to take my time and be willing to make multiple versions / muslins – the unicorns scare easily if you rush at them 🙂
Oh, I hope you find your TNTs! I actually started out the other way—after a lifetime of sewing only costumes and fanciful things, waking up and realizing I could make practical things and wear them every day was my favourite thing about “real” sewing. I made T shirts and jeans and a winter coat. And then I changed careers, stopped needing to feel invisible… and suddenly the dresses crept in, and now I’m the girl who wears the wacky dresses at work. I need to get back to being practical, though, as I have very few casual clothes these days. 😂
I don’t know about practical – I think whatever makes you feel good is the go! It’s lovely how sewing can just adapt to your job, your feelings, what you need at a particular time – such an awesome skill 🙂
Ohhh, good luck! My best tip would be to experiment with the world of freebie patterns from indie designers. It’s a good way to experiment with who drafts well for you.
I probably have 3 TNTs so far: Deer & Doe Plaintain (the original version, which I graded up in the bust and shoulder), Grainline Hemlock, and Designer Stitch Kat. I’ve made 2-3 of each successfully, with very little need for alterations. I’ve even hacked Plaintain into a long sleeve midi dress.
Peppermint magazine, Tessuti, George and Ginger, Colette, Itch to Stitch, KZJO, By Hand, Pauline Alice, Sewloft, Grainline, and Deer and Doe all have at least one free top pattern.
Another plantain recommendation! I think that top might be winning as most often TNT!
I like the freebie idea and that’s a good list for reference. I did wonder about the Sorbetto, as I live in Sydney so it’s hot a lot of the time.
Must. pick. something. and. just. start…
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